No Sun but Still Shining: 2 Days in Tromsø, Norway

Head to Tromsø to see The Northern Lights (and enjoy a great town)! Photo by: Evan Berman

After spending time in Oslo, I headed up to Tromsø for a couple of days. The highlight was seeing the Northern Lights, but my time in Tromsø was great as well. The food and drinks were delicious and there were many great sights to see in the town. I highly recommend that you visit Tromsø!

The review of my time in Tromsø, Norway is a part of the larger Nordic Expedition. For more on this trip, follow these links:

Intro

Flight: Delta Comfort+, CHS-JFK

JFK Lounges

Flight: Norse Airways Economy, JFK-OSL

Flight: Norwegian Economy, OSL-BGO

The Magic of Bergen, Norway

Christmas Markets

Hotel: Clarion Collection Hotel Havnekontoret, Bergen, Norway

Flight: SAS Economy, BGO-SVG

Flight: SAS Economy, SVG-OSL

2 Days in Oslo, Norway

Oslo Restaurants

Hotel: Comfort Karl Johan, Oslo, Norway

Flight: SAS Economy, OSL-TOS

Terrific Tromsø, Norway (This Article)

A Whale of a Meal, Tromsø, Norway Restaurants

Seeing the Northern Lights

Hotel: Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora, Tromsø, Norway

Hotel: Clarion Collection Hotel With, Tromsø, Norway

Flight: SAS Economy, TOS-OSL

Flight: Norse Atlantic Airways Economy: OSL-JFK

December in New York

Lounges at LGA

Flight: Delta Economy, LGA-CHS

Conclusion

Trip Summary:

Tromsø, Norway is often referred to as the gateway to the Northern Lights in Norway. It is the largest city above the Arctic Circle and has an airport– which makes it a great launching point! During my time here, the following occurred:

  • Tasted incredible food at several different restaurants
  • Sampled great beer, including from the northernmost brewery in the world
  • Explored the important cultural buildings, including the Polar Museum and Magic Ice Bar 😉
  • Saw the Northern Lights

Flight Info:

I flew SAS from Oslo to Tromsø on flight SK 4418. This flight was just under 1 hour 45 minutes and peaceful for the majority, though there was tremendous turbulence at the end.

Read more details about the flight from Oslo to Tromsø here.

Price: The roundtrip flight from Oslo to Tromsø cost $208.90.

Points Earned: 696 United Miles

Lodging Info:

The entrance to Hotel Aurora. Photo by: Evan Berman

I stayed 2 nights in Tromsø, 1 night in Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora and 1 night in Clarion Collection Hotel With. Both Nordic Choice hotels were great, though Hotel With had a direct view of the harbor.

Price: 16,000 Choice Points per night. I purchased 44,200 points for $350.20. In essence, this cost $253.54 or $126.77 per night.

Points Earned: N/A. I earned $17.51 (5%) cash back on the points purchase but nothing for the stay.

Airport Details:

As mentioned above, I flew into TOS, the airport serving Tromsø. This international airport has 72 gates, all in 1 terminal, though they are grouped in domestic or international wings.

I will review TOS in a separate article. Per Flight Connections, the main airlines that fly there are regional carriers Widerøe and Norwegian, as well as Star Alliance Member SAS. Lufthansa, Edelweiss, Air France, Wizz Air, and Eurowings all fly from BGO as well. In total there are flights to 27 international destinations in 10 countries and 14 domestic destinations.

There was a lounge at this airport, but it appears to be closed. As such, I waited for my flight at the gate.

Transportation Details:

Both Uber and Lyft operate in Norway, but the most convenient way to get to and from the airport is via bus. Once you get your bags, head for the exit. You will see several buses that can take you to your destination, depending on where that is. I paid the driver upon entering the bus.

I walked everywhere in town. Upon returning to the airport, I opted for the bus once again. There is a convenient stop near both Nordic Choice Clarion Collection hotels.

Price: 245 NOK ($25.67)

Points: 76 Chase Ultimate Rewards Points (3x on Travel with Chase Sapphire Reserve)

Food & Drink:

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner were all included in the fare at both hotels. That being said, I was out and about most of the time and did not opt for any meals at the hotel. As such, I had tremendous meals at restaurants. A separate, in-depth review of the meals can be found here.

Pastafabrikken:

I’ve never had an eggshell present in a carbonara dish– I think it was a nice touch! Photo by: Evan Berman

For a late lunch/early dinner before heading off to my Northern Lights tour, I opted for a traditional meal of pasta carbonara! As with many cities in Europe, few restaurants are open on Sunday afternoons and those that are cater to tourists. I found Pastafabrikken, a large casual dining restaurant, and enjoyed a hearty meal before heading back into the cold Norwegian winter night. This was the only restaurant or bar in Tromsø that I visited which accepted AmEx cards.

Price: 175 NOK ($18.01)

Points Earned: 72 AmEx Membership Rewards Points (4x on Dining with AmEx Gold Card)

Full Steam Tromsø:

Hello, smoked whale! Photo by: Evan Berman

My favorite meal in Tromsø, I ate at Full Steam after the opportunity to go on a Northern Lights Tour my second night was cancelled due to weather. The experience was incredible! The smoked whale appetizer and reindeer stew were delicious and the beer trio was a great compliment– I can now say that I have tasted beer from the northernmost brewery in the world! AmEx was not accepted here, so I used my Sapphire Reserve Card instead of the Gold Card.

Price: 897 NOK ($92.37)

Points Earned: 277 Chase Ultimate Rewards Points (3x on Dining using Chase Sapphire Reserve Card)

Skarven:

While I tried to eat at Arctandria, a well-known place that specializes in local food, both seafood and meat, I was unable to get a reservation at any time. Instead, I opted for a lunch at Skarven, the restaurant below. I selected the Bacalao balls, which were stuffed with clipfish. The food was decent, though not the best that I’ve had.

The menu for Skarven. Photo by: Evan Berman

Price: 175 NOK ($18.01)

Points Earned: 72 AmEx Membership Rewards Points (4x on Dining with AmEx Gold Card)

Ølhallen:

The entrance to Ølhallen. As you can tell, the snow had turned to rain. 🙁 Photo by: Evan Berman

On my last night in Tromsø, I decided to check out Ølhallen, a beer hall that has been around for nearly a century. While not as big, this was in the same style as German beer halls– long and narrow. They had a great selection of beers.

For my first beer, I ordered a sour and as happens to me not infrequently, the tap kicked mid-pour. The friendly bartender gave me what had been poured, switched out the keg, and poured me a full glass. In all, the service was stellar, the beer was great, and the atmosphere, though quieter than most beer halls, was fun. If you’re a beer drinker visiting Tromsø, this is a must-visit! Once again, AmEx was not accepted here.

Price: 221 NOK ($22.68)

Points Earned: 68 Chase Ultimate Rewards Points (3x on Dining using Chase Sapphire Reserve)

Blårock Cafe:

Blårock Cafe is a local spot that sometimes offers live music in addition to the beer on tap and burgers on the menu. When I was there, there was no live music but they did have a nice soundtrack playing on the speakers overhead. While I only stayed for 1 beer, I could tell that this is a good spot to visit– the bartender was friendly and many people seemed to know each other. Once again, AmEx was not accepted here.

Price: 124 NOK ($12.78)

Points Earned: 38 Chase Ultimate Rewards Points (3x on Dining with Chase Sapphire Reserve)

Tromsø Magic Ice Bar:

The exterior of Magic Ice Bar Tromsø. Photo by: Evan Berman

Have you really visited a snowy northern city if you don’t explore an Ice Bar? My thoughts exactly. I had to check out the Magic Ice Bar Tromsø and I’m glad that I did. The ice sculptures inside the frozen area were quite impressive, as well they should be given how challenging it is to be selected to carve statues in one of these bars.

The inside of the Magic Ice Bar in Tromsø. Photo by: Evan Berman

Your admission is limited to an hour due to the temperature (the inside is kept at freezing) and you must wear the jacket that is provided to enter. On the bright side, you get 1 drink and can purchase others. I chose the berry concoction special. There are 4 distinct rooms ranging from large and open to private and romantic.

The drink included with admission. Photo by: Evan Berman

This is one of several Ice Bars. As can be seen in the picture below, there are other locations, 5 in total. I’ll have to come back to Scandinavia and visit all of them!

Each Ice Bar has a different theme and sculptures. Photo by: Evan Berman

Price: 212 NOK ($21.91)

Points Earned: 43 Capital One Miles (2x Points Earned on Capital One Venture X Card)

Activities:

Northern Lights:

Despite the cloudy night, the Northern Lights were prominent and beautiful! Photo by: Evan Berman

I won’t bury the lede here– the best activity was seeing the Northern Lights! After all, this is the main reason why people come to Tromsø. I joined a group tour with roughly 15 others on a minibus that promised to drive us as far as we needed in order to see the Northern Lights, even if that meant heading into Finland.

Price: $105.90, though there are many different prices depending on what you are looking for.

Points Earned: 211 Capital One Miles (2x Points Earned on Capital One Venture X Card)

Troll Museum:

A friendly troll. Photo by: Evan Berman

Trolls are popular in Scandinavia. There are plenty of different kinds and most offer good luck, though some do not. I visited the Troll Museum, which was quite enjoyable despite the obvious tourist nature. The museum explores the folklore behind these creatures and was designed quite well. There are iPads, signs, and audio tours so that people of all ages can enjoy. Though I only spent 20 minutes or so, it was enjoyable!

As you can see, this is a great place for children of all ages. Photo by: Evan Berman

Price: 180 NOK ($18.56)

Points Earned: 37 Capital One Miles (2x Points Earned on Capital One Venture X Card)

Nordnorsk Kunstmuseum:

This was my favorite item in the museum. Photo by: Evan Berman

The Art Museum was relatively underwhelming. There are 2 levels of displays, a recurring area and special exhibitions area. Some of the art seemed out of place, for example there was Aztec and Japanese art, in addition to Nordic arctic. The special exhibition featured modernist art in the minimalist style. If I visited Tromsø again, I wouldn’t go back here.

What an incredible… leaf! Photo by: Evan Berman

Price: 80 NOK ($8.25)

Points Earned: 16 Capital One Miles (2x Points Earned on Capital One Venture X Card)

Polar Museum:

Cow rugs are great and all but a polar bear rug is next level! Photo by: Evan Berman

The Polar Museum is a great way to learn about the history of Tromsø and Norway as a whole. From the history of the first explorer to cross the Arctic Circle to the culture of Norway, the museum is a great source of knowledge.

Price: 150 NOK ($15.46)

Points Earned: 30 Capital One Miles (2x Points Earned on Capital One Venture X Card)

Arctic Cathedral:

The outside of the cathedral, partially obscured by the wall surrounding it. Photo by: Evan Berman

The Arctic Cathedral, while outside of downtown, is worth visiting. There are services; however, the highlight is seeing a concert. The acoustics are incredible, as is the symphony. I stopped in during the afternoon which meant I saw the rehearsal for the upcoming concert, but they often have shows.

The rehearsal was very impressive– I recommend stopping by and seeing them perform!

The musicians performing. Photo by: Evan Berman

Price: 70 NOK ($7.20)

Points Earned: 14 Capital One Miles (2x Points Earned on Capital One Venture X Card)

Photo of the Trip:

In case you were curious… Photo by: Evan Berman

One last tidbit from the troll museum!

Total:

Price:

Food and Drink: 1,804 NOK ($185.76)

Transportation: 245 NOK ($25.67)

Flights: $208.90

Hotel: 32,000 Choice Points (16k each night). I purchased 44,200 points for $350.20. In essence, this cost $253.54 or $126.77 per night.

Activities: 480 NOK and $105.90 ($155.37)

Total Price: 2,529 NOK and $314.80 ($829.24)

Points Earned:

Food and Drink: 383 Chase Ultimate Rewards Points, 144 AmEx Membership Rewards Points, and 42 Capital One Miles

Transportation: 76 Chase Ultimate Rewards Points

Flights: 1,043 AmEx Membership Rewards Points, as well as 696 United Miles

Hotel: $17.51 cashback

Activities: 308 Capital One Miles

Total Points: 1,187 AmEx Membership Rewards Points, 459 Chase Ultimate Rewards Points, 350 Capital One Miles, $17.51 in cashback, and 696 United Miles

Tromsø, you were terrific! Next up: reviews of the restaurants in Tromsø as well as a recap of the once-in-a-lifetime experience of seeing the Northern Lights.